There is only one Webmor thing for it, and that’s to go

Enjoy the behind the scenes magic at Webmors Restaurant, 66 High St, DD11 1AW. For a table contact 01241 873 987.

Enjoy the behind the scenes magic at Webmors Restaurant, 66 High St, DD11 1AW. For a table contact 01241 873 987.

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Tucked down an unassuming alley alongside the Webster Memorial Theatre in Arbroath is a treat so sweet you’d be a fool to miss it.

Open for only two years the twinkly lights of Webmors Restaurant create an atmosphere of unassuming comfort and calm, not easily mastered in what is essentially a large, open room.

The soft lighting, seemingly unplanned distribution of intriguing nic nacs, mezzanine and dripping candles combine with well-placed tables to forge a pretty special dining experience.

Seated downstairs next to some atmosphere-inducing red chesterfields and a piano, I glanced over the menu. It was a good solid menu, in both content and texture. One can tell a lot from the physicality of a menu and Webmors is up there in the ‘impressive’ bracket.

Our extremely informative but relaxed waiter was well turned out in traditional black and white and whisked me a crisp, dry house white wine, while I perused their wares.

The cullen skink (£5.50) was like a velvety blanket, brim full with chunks of meaty smoked haddock, spiked with pepper.

My fellow diner went for the fresh, cool taste of the melon sorbet. Verging on a dessert, dusted with icing sugar, the sorbet was a schooling in depth of flavour. Presented exquisitely, it was a rare treat to be surprised and delighted by something so simple.

Pre-warned of the mammoth eating task of the main course is always a bit of a turn-off for me. Size should not be the most redeeming feature about a dish. I cannot deny the steak burger (£11) is large, not to mention the gargantuan chips, but it’s far from the most redeeming feature. The soft brioche bun held its shape but added sweetness to the rich DH Robertson butcher steak. The smoky tomato accompaniment and gentle, creamy coleslaw rounded off the epitome of the perfect burger.

Pictured is the crispy, filo topped chicken and chorizo pie, with chive-topped mash (£10). A delight of tender chunks of chicken in a creamy Cognac sauce with a punch of paprika sausage was balanced and punchy.

Mike Patterson, head chef and Marc Gibson, sous chef make the simple, modest dishes, absolutely bang on. All I can say is, book now!